French
macaroons and more
by Kelly Davis
French macaroons have landed in San Diego. As far as I know—and I've been
looking—one could not buy the delicate cookies within 100 miles of San
Diego's city center. (Perhaps I've overlooked some Orange County bakery, but
I doubt it.)
Two years ago, San Diego's Opera Patisserie, a dessert caterer since 2002,
started up an online retail store, from which you could order macaroons, but
there was
no bricks-and-mortar location. Then, a few months ago, a friend with whom I share
a fondness for macaroons (she'll have them sent express from Paris if need be)
told me she could no longer find them on the Opera site. That's because Opera
had bigger things in the works. Desperately needing a macaroon fix, last month
I checked back with Opera's website and saw these magical words: "Now open.
Our new French café in Downtown San Diego."
I drove to the café the next day, located at 1354 Fifth Ave. between Bankers
Hill and downtown. I convinced myself the macaroons would be the one thing not
on the menu—because it would be too perfect if they were. But there they
were on a banner just outside the patisserie's front door in all their pastel-hued
beauty, available individually or by the box. I bought two boxes, a bargain at
$7.50.
First, some background on French macaroons, which are not to be confused with
the tasty yet pedestrian coconut macaroon. French macaroons are an art form,
difficult to make, comprising two crisp, airy almond-and-egg-white based cookies
that sandwich a flavored filling, like raspberry marmalade, chocolate ganache
or pistachio crème. Done right, they're flaky on the outside and slightly
chewy in the middle. Anyone who's tried one falls in love.
There's far more to Opera Patisserie than perfect macaroons, however. There's
a large menu of sandwiches, quiches and "French-style pizza."But it's
the desserts that you're there for. Assembled like pieces of art in the front
display case, you'll find six or seven different individual pastries, cheesecakes,
several varieties of tea cakes, chocolate truffles and, of course, those macaroons.
For now, Opera's hours are limited, perhaps so owners Vincent Garcia and Thierry
Cahez (the charming French guy who'll likely help you with your selection) can
get a read on their clientele; the café closes at 6 p.m. on weekdays and
3 p.m. on Saturdays and doesn't open on Sundays. So go there for a dessert before
dinner, or a dinner of dessert to enjoy in the pleasant bistro-like setting.
Pick up a box of mini pastries ($11) to take to a dinner party or to enjoy at
home.
For around $20, I got three individual pastries and a box of a mini French
pastries to take home. That purchase fed three people with enough left over
for two more
evenings of nibbling. Outstanding was the flourless chocolate cake. The "Adelia”—marscapone
cheese layered with red berry cream and almond sponge cake—was my favorite
among the mini pastries. Oh heck, they were all good. Stunningly good and pretty
to look at, too. You can browse the selections yourself at www.operadesserts.com
(most, but not everything, pictured is available at the café). Or, stop
by the café and chat with Thierry about what's what—and don't forget
the macaroons.
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